EisPiraten.com Forum Index EisPiraten.com
San Gabriel Mountains Forum
 
 FAQFAQ   SearchSearch 
 MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   Join! (free) Join! (free)
 ProfileProfile 
 Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 

Overdue TR: Mount Rainier via Disappointment Cleaver

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    EisPiraten.com Forum Index -> Other Ranges -> Out-of-state
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
He219
Supersport Bierpirat


Joined: 27 Sep 2007
Posts: 386
Add Comment
Show Comments




Location: Balboa/Guadalahabra

PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:02 pm    Post subject: Overdue TR: Mount Rainier via Disappointment Cleaver  Reply with quote

I just got my camera back today via DHL after leaving it in my friends car during the rush to catch my plane back to John Wayne two weeks ago.
Keep in mind that I had a lot of 'stuff'.  My mountaineering gear alone weighed in at 74.2# on the airport scale.

June 18th-21st, 2008

Mount Rainier (14,411ft). Nice spindrifts on top ..

The route to Camp Muir from Paradise ..




Mount St. Helens in the morning light, June 20th, 2008

Altocumulus standing lenticularis remained on station for a few days

Little Tahoma Peak (11,117ft) and Cowlitz Glacier

Home for a couple nights ..

Ingraham Glacier and High Camp

Cadaver Gap from Disappointment Cleaver

Break with another ropeteam at Dawn, June 21st, 4:30am

Heading to the top with whiteout conditions above 13.5K. Sustained winds 80 to 100mph.. no pix.

Parting view.



Edit: Spelling corrections


Last edited by He219 on Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:09 pm; edited 3 times in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Hikin_Jim
Stove Droid


Joined: 27 Sep 2007
Posts: 4595
Add Comment
Show Comments




Location: Orange County, CA

PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

NICE!
_________________
Backpacking stove reviews and information:  Adventures In Stoving
Personal hiking blog:  Hikin' Jim's Blog
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
He219
Supersport Bierpirat


Joined: 27 Sep 2007
Posts: 386
Add Comment
Show Comments




Location: Balboa/Guadalahabra

PostPosted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Jim!
Smile
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Taco
Site Admin
Site Admin


Joined: 27 Sep 2007
Posts: 5546
Add Comment
Show Comments




Location: Stuntin in the trap son

PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 2:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DOOD YES
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
FIGHT ON
Guest




Add Comment
Show Comments
Set my page




PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 3:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A lot of cool pics. The first one looks like the mountain has a cloud comb over.
Back to top
He219
Supersport Bierpirat


Joined: 27 Sep 2007
Posts: 386
Add Comment
Show Comments




Location: Balboa/Guadalahabra

PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 7:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

FIGHT ON wrote:
A lot of cool pics. The first one looks like the mountain has a cloud comb over.

Thanks; it's moisture condensed by laminar flow as wind rushed over the stratovolcano.  Very cool to watch.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Tim
MacGyver


Joined: 08 Apr 2008
Posts: 560
Add Comment
Show Comments




Location: California, USA

PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice trip! Looks like you were just a week behind that nasty storm that trapped 3 day hikers (1 of them didn't make it) at Camp Muir. If you get the chance, got any more details of your climb? Were you with with a guided group? How many days on the mountain?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
406
Artist


Joined: 17 Jan 2008
Posts: 315
Add Comment
Show Comments




Location: Paper St. Soap Co.

PostPosted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 1:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice photos.  Did you make the summit?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
He219
Supersport Bierpirat


Joined: 27 Sep 2007
Posts: 386
Add Comment
Show Comments




Location: Balboa/Guadalahabra

PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 4:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

406 wrote:
Nice photos.  Did you make the summit?

Yes, but the summit was an instantaneous turnabout because of whiteout conditions.  
Quite anticlimactic.

There was one other rope team that braved it with us (I think Alpine Ascents) along with a couple of climbers that were already heading back down at the crater rim and they did the quick turnabout thing too beause of the wind. It wasn't a Kodak moment. The entire summit crater was a miserable cold place considering what little we could make out and we just headed right back down fearing that the weather might be worsening.  I was covered white with frost.

The best part was the descent and being able to see the awesomeness of Mount Rainier once we got out of the clouds and below 13.5K.  Above Cathedral Gap and Gibraltar the Glaciers are MONSTER.  We left camp at midnight and most of the trip up was under moonlight and headlamps.  The crevasses we jumped were plain scary in cross section on the return.
Tim wrote:
Nice trip! Looks like you were just a week behind that nasty storm that trapped 3 day hikers (1 of them didn't make it) at Camp Muir. If you get the chance, got any more details of your climb? Were you with with a guided group? How many days on the mountain?

Yeah, talked to a few people who were there.  It was 500' below Muir - too close not to survive. The lack of route-finding in the whiteout (along with an insulated pad where they dug in) is what did them/him in.  I brought compass bearings and pre-programmed my gps with known waypoints. We did it on our own, no guides. Spent 3 nights/4 days on the mountain.

So here are the details:

The day after Taco and I got off San Gorgonio my buddy Paul asked me if I was interested in climbing Mount Rainier along with his wife.  
As it turned out the timing was great.  We had five weeks to prepare and almost immediately decided against paying the $850.00 for RMI guides.
With our combined experience and some good research I had no doubt.  Paul and his wife have experience summiting Kili, Elbrus, Aconcagua and BigMac, so I had to get in shape fast!

The time flew by and so did a lot of money accumilating gear I still needed, like a sub-zero hooded jacket, crevasse rescue equipment and more ice gear.  
All the money saved by not going with guides paid for the gear.
Laughing

I studied just about every pertinent youtube video tutorial and got a book both TacoDelRio and Paul recommended; Freedom of the Hills.  Mechanical advantage for Crevasse Rescue became my specialty, but we still practiced rope drills to ascend under our own power.  My Prusik knots worked twice as fast as their Black Diamond Ascenders.  We practiced ascending rope, tied off on a hig tree branch near a tennis court by my house. lol

We did one familiarization hike to work on teamwork and headed up Baldy.  This is where I erred.  They brought their 70# Rainier packs while I carried a daypack with 25#.  I took them up the Register Ridge route and felt really good about myself, virtually sprinting to the top.  I even took some of their weight for the trip back down and was feeling really good about myself. Little did I realize that toting a 70lb pack without practice up to Camp Muir would just about do me in.

We flew to Seattle, picked up fuel at the REI in Tacoma (TSA wont let you take fuel bottles) along with some odds and ends like a sunhat I forgot (really needed).  The most valuable trick we employed was when my partners used up all their fuel either cooking a huge kickarse tunamac (group meal) or because of a leaky fitting on their stove.  They had no more fuel after just one day but we needed to melt water at 10K and hydrate for the climb. This is where a Summitposter's advise to me came in.  We used plastic trash bags to utilize solar radiation to melt water and after experimenting with a couple techniques developed three water making factories.  The snow melted best on the bags, not in them.  We made ramps with a catch-basin and lined them with the trashbags. Voila! More water than we needed.

Off we went from Camp Muir on the summit push starting at midnight by crossing Cowlitz Glacier to Cathedral Gap.  After some mixed climbing on a Talus slope we reached to top of Cathedral Gap and there the winds reached 100mph! Goggles were invaluable, even if at night. Fortunately the wind was in our backs and it blew us right up the Ingraham Glacier to the Flats.  The hard part was returning straight into the wind during our decent.  It was the most difficult part of the climb, sustained hurricane force winds blowing up the ridges from the Emmons and Ingraham Glaciers.  It took almost a quarter liter of water just to wash the grit out of my teeth.  At the Flats we saw the handful of tents from the high camp like lanters in the sky.  By now there were three or four rope teams ahead of us and we could follow their headlamps snaking up the Disappointment Cleaver, DC.  That was the coolest part for me, making out the DC after studying it for weeks. First we crossed a half a dozen crevasses and snowbridges to traverse the flats to the DC.  It was cold so they held well and the biggest jump was only a foot or two.   The trail was well marked and guides cut a foot wide ice ledge along the steep ice at the toe of the Cleaver.  Then came 40-45 degree mixed portions for a couple of hours.  Fixed lines were invaluable for the descent.  At the top of the Cleaver we passed two guided RMI rope teams that turned around because of the winds.  We continued on behind another rope team (Alpine Ascents I think).  

< This is only 1K below the summit (13,350ft at 5:01AM)


It was a total whiteout above 13.5K and it got VERY cold.  I looked like Frosty from ice crystals that built-up.  We headed up to the Crater and made the quick turnaround. We couldn't stop until we descended back down below 13K.  On the route down we took a couple of pictures because it was daylight by then.  Thats why the order of the images above are not in chronological sequence because of the darkness heading up.

In a nutshell I'm glad we didn't go with RMI.  They seemed like slavedrivers.  What they call a three day climb is actually one day schooling followed by the climb. On the second day they head up late morning and arrive at Muir by mid-afternoon, get a couple of hours sleep in their sardine box lodging and then rope up for the summit, returning all the way down the next afternoon.  We carried way more gear but had the luxury of setting our pace and acclimatising.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
406
Artist


Joined: 17 Jan 2008
Posts: 315
Add Comment
Show Comments




Location: Paper St. Soap Co.

PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 9:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Congrats!  Sounds like a great trip.  Climbing/skiing the Cascade Volcanoes are the few locations I've felt that GPS would be necessary ( but still never used one ).
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Taco
Site Admin
Site Admin


Joined: 27 Sep 2007
Posts: 5546
Add Comment
Show Comments




Location: Stuntin in the trap son

PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 11:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ready for round two?  Cool
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
He219
Supersport Bierpirat


Joined: 27 Sep 2007
Posts: 386
Add Comment
Show Comments




Location: Balboa/Guadalahabra

PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 5:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

TacoDelRio wrote:
Ready for round two?  Cool

We DEFINATELY need to do this next season.
Wouldn't mind making it an annual thing and there are lots of routes to do.  

Right now it's warm and freezing is above 14K.  
Glaciers are really moving, rocks falling, crevasses opening wider and more rock exposed.  

So shoot for the very end of June next year, stay for a week to get the optimal window.  
The Rainier National Park is one of the most pristine natural areas I have seen in a very long time.
It's a real Jewl on the west coast.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
Tim
MacGyver


Joined: 08 Apr 2008
Posts: 560
Add Comment
Show Comments




Location: California, USA

PostPosted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the details, Fritz. I'm impressed that you taught yourself all the skills within those few months. Good job!

One day I'd like to try Shasta, Hood and Rainier. But man, I can barely manage 30-40 lbs much less 70.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Taco
Site Admin
Site Admin


Joined: 27 Sep 2007
Posts: 5546
Add Comment
Show Comments




Location: Stuntin in the trap son

PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 12:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might do a train-borne trip up the PNW late Winter or so. Gotta ninja climb it if I or we do. Cool
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
KathyW



Joined: 27 Sep 2007
Posts: 212
Add Comment
Show Comments




Location: Redlands, CA

PostPosted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Congrats on getting Rainier - especially in that wind.  We did it last year in 50 mph winds and that was hard enough - I can't imagine trying to deal with 100  mph winds.
_________________
********************************

http://kathywing.smugmug.com/
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
simonov
Tacticool


Joined: 27 Nov 2007
Posts: 1068
Add Comment
Show Comments




Location: Truckee Meadows USA

PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 2008 12:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Apparently, some folks from the OCHB just got back from a trip up to Camp Muir.  I'm not sure they summited, though.

Some pics: http://hiking.meetup.com/217/phot...d=5300949&photoAlbumId=425400
_________________
The future had clearly gotten out of hand.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
lilbitmo
Silverdaddy AKA DILF


Joined: 04 Mar 2008
Posts: 1092
Add Comment
Show Comments




Location: Orange County

PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 1:13 pm    Post subject: Camp Muir Hike Reply with quote

Author Message
simonov

We did not summit, we only went to Camp Muir. Conditions were outstanding, sunny, clear and warm until we reached the camp where windy conditions coming across the gaps made it time for warmer cloathes.

Glaciers and snow fields were exposing crevases which were opening up more and more each day. New snow could be seen covering the dirty snow everywhere - about 4-6 inches from the two previous days.

Everyone in our group made it to Camp Muir - extensive amount of Summiter's were coming down and going up. Camp Muir had at least 100 + people come and go in the short 45 minutes we stayed up there.

If someone would be so kind as to send me the information on how to post pictures properly I can start a new thread that will show some of the best pictures I've seen of Rainier on a clear sunny day?

Thanks
Lilbitmo
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Tim
MacGyver


Joined: 08 Apr 2008
Posts: 560
Add Comment
Show Comments




Location: California, USA

PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 9:23 am    Post subject: Re: Camp Muir Hike Reply with quote

lilbitmo wrote:
If someone would be so kind as to send me the information on how to post pictures properly I can start a new thread that will show some of the best pictures I've seen of Rainier on a clear sunny day?

Lilbitmo, just sign up for a free photo hosting site, like Photobucket, Picasa, Flickr, etc. Upload your pictures there and then provide a link to the album or the individual pictures in a post here. If you want to embed the picture in your post, use the [IMG] tag as explained here: http://www.phpbb.com/community/faq.php?mode=bbcode#f50
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    EisPiraten.com Forum Index -> Other Ranges -> Out-of-state All times are GMT - 7 Hours
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

Card File  Gallery  Forum Archive
Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group

"Their only motive was a great ideal; this was what linked together mountaineers so widely dissimilar in background and so diverse in character."
Maurice Herzog, Annapurna