San Gabriel Mountains Discussion Forum

TacoDelRio

"One Nut Wonder", 640M 5.7 AI3

ROute page: http://www.summitpost.org/route/4.../One-Nut-Wonder-640M-5-7-AI3.html
YAESHT!

Fourth shot at this route. Alex was interested in it and called me up, so we headed up there early.

Either a funnelweb spider or a young tarantula at Cedar Glen CG. Really cool.

Alex moving up

Myself in lead battle gear, full battle rattle

Alex

"...over yonder!"

Alex

Looking up

Approaching the crux

Tried to send the crux on the right side. Made it up a short bit with no crampons on, fired in a #4 TCU under a flake, and ended up backing off so Alex could try his hand/s at the left side crack.

Alex lead up, put a Metolius #8 curve nut in the crack, and made it up in crampons. Really badass job, Alex! I followed, fell three times, smashing my left testicle, which felt like I had my balls in a burning vice. This is where the route get's it's name. One nut in, one nut gone. Laughing

Alex sending

Belay ledge

Easy stuff beyond

Us moving up beyond

Bizzniss

Neat towers

Alex resting

Moving up

My ass

Alex's ass

Alex topped out

Views

Alex brought bagels, and tuna. Also, some oranges. I brought a few cereal bars and the other half of the Ritter Alpine Milk Chocolate bar I had on Lightning Couloir.

Ah, the descent! Do you like Buckthorn (or Buckhorn, whatever)? A lot? Well, look no further! We'll even throw in we submerged rocks and logs under a few feet of powder snow, sometimes covered in an inch of thin ice that supports weight for a moment! Claw your way through these friendly plants while the other bits try to snap your legs!

Kudos to Alex for postholing his way through the day. That part sucked quite a bit..

WOOOOOOO
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Light is Right - Smooth is Fast - Speed is Safety - Mind over Matter - Burritos are Delicious

JMunaretto · Joined: 07 Feb 2008 Posts: 384 Location: Los Angeles

nice!
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Joseph

http://socalhikes.com/

406 · Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 4:21 pm Post subject:

nice work guys.

lilbitmo · Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 5:34 pm Post subject: One Nut Wonder

Did you get a chance to find the other guy's nut up there so you could return it to the rightful owner?

Great Job, Hope to some day get advanced enough to start doing pitches like that.

Lilbitmo Very Happy

HikeUp · Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 7:50 pm Post subject:

Two are redundant and unnecessary extra weight. Shocked

You guys are nuts...er...I mean crazy!

Terry Morse · Joined: 03 Mar 2008 Posts: 103 Location: California

Nuts are overated.......look what Lance does with just one!

Hikin_Jim · Posted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 10:39 pm Post subject:

Cool schtuff.
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Hiking? Aw, gee, do I have to?

TacoDelRio · Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 1:48 am Post subject:

Here are some pics Alex took...

Bracing for rockfall

The route
_________________
Light is Right - Smooth is Fast - Speed is Safety - Mind over Matter - Burritos are Delicious

EnFuego · Posted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 2:33 pm Post subject:

Nice work boys. The crux looks pretty cool to do with crampons - nice work Alex.

The whole route looks pretty awesome. How long did it take to top out?

~EnFuego
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There is no place for me in this world, Chanchito, I don't belong out there and I don't belong here. So I'm going into the wilderness, probably to die. I hope to see you again Chancho, maybe in the next life.

hvydrt · Joined: 27 Sep 2007 Posts: 220 Location: IE

Very Nice!!!! What way did you go down?????