EisPiraten.com Forum Index EisPiraten.com
San Gabriel Mountains Forum
 
 FAQFAQ   SearchSearch 
 MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   Join! (free) Join! (free)
 ProfileProfile 
 Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 

Exploring San J Area Climbing

 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    EisPiraten.com Forum Index -> Other Ranges -> California
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
Taco
Site Admin
Site Admin


Joined: 27 Sep 2007
Posts: 5547
Add Comment
Show Comments




Location: Who knows

PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 1:18 am    Post subject: Exploring San J Area Climbing  Reply with quote

I've always been looking at the San J's as a source of long demanding routes. To test my fitness and gain an understanding of the area, I planned some explorations. Casual scouting trips to just kinda figure the place out a bit. Today was one such day, with Chris C. and I pooping around looking for some spooky climbs.

We hiked up onto the ridgeline west of the upper tram station (and west of the watertank), and hiked west along it overlooking the desert and some cool looking crags. I spoke with a local and he gave me a good overview of the area. Thanks dude. Sorry I was joking around so loudly today. Smile

We hiked over to a small dome probably 1 mile hiking from the tram. I tried to climb up what looked like a moderate finger and hand crack, but didn't notice how loose the surface was. The rock down lower on this formation is not as good as the stuff up above in the sun. It's still good and it holds protection pretty confidently. I backed off this about 20ft up and got all scratched up. Tried left of that, and went up some 5.6-y whatever stuff before getting a cam in, then going left into a class 3 gully with a real short handcrack which put us on a ledge it appears one can probably walk to.

Continuing up this climb (which we call Dirtman), we move into a really really easy chimney that gets awkward with a pack on, like some sorta canyoneering move. Up right with some crummy 5th class with a buncha big loose blocks on it and friggin Pine needles all up in dem bitches. Then easy walk and short scramble to base of the dome, where the rock changes character and kinda reminds me of a few spots in Tuolumne, with cool lumpy crack lip features and stuff. Kinda spacey. I think there's a dike on a slab face of this dome that goes up a bit on what looks like hard-ish slab, which then inverts and becomes incut. Really neat. Also present are some knobs! Yeehaw, knobs.

San J Trip by TacoDelRio, on Flickr

I wasn't feeling like leading these possible pitches because I wasn't sure where or if the pro would come up, since the cracks are waterworn a bit and flared. We hiked to the top and I built a toprope anchor on the summit, beneath the main block. With my 69m rope and an anchor made with two cordelettes, there were about 20ft of rope left on the bottom.

We climbed up the crack starting on the bottom left half of the photo. The first moves started with standing on the edge of the block barely visible in the photo. It's about a foot and a half or two feet or whatever between that and the wall, and falling on the first handful of moves puts you at risk of hitting this. Not a big deal after you learn the state of the rock, but a big deal when what we had just come through wasn't confidence inspiring. Real big change. The crack has a flat right side so you kinda lieback it and step up the edge of your left foot on a small edge or a decent smear, then apply to that and move up, and grab the black hold on the right, move up to bigger and bigger holds and then you're in a cool crack sorta lieback deal that's pretty chill. The lay of the rope then commanded me to follow the steep step above where the light hits the edge, and over. This meant making some cool moves left with some nice exposure, and then cranking over the face. This would be a really awesome route to lead. If you choose to climb this, give it a quick cleaning up of loose bits.

San J Trip by TacoDelRio, on Flickr
Chris on the opening moves.

What really caught my eye when we pulled up at the foot of this formation was that right corner. I think it was a little waterworn and flaring like the last, but larger. It turns left and it would maybe take tiny cams in that roof. I'm not confident enough to lead that section. I think it might even be a knifeblade seam. I figure it must seem lame to many other climbers, but I don't mind toproping a route a buncha times before I lead it. I figure I'll have other chances. I'd like to do that to this route. It's a really cool line that catches anyone's eyes.

I didn't look further right around the corner, but there may be some nice things there. It's shady! Smile

There is a neat slab I talked about before on the left of that photo. The walk-up/scramble is further left and up.

Thank you for your time. I hope you like the nerdy art present in climbing movement and minor explorations.

Some more pics:

San J Trip by TacoDelRio, on Flickr
Would this be Coffmans Crag?

San J Trip by TacoDelRio, on Flickr
Cool face west of the tram

San J Trip by TacoDelRio, on Flickr
Neat looking ridge. That could be a fun outing in itself.

San J Trip by TacoDelRio, on Flickr
Chris is smaller than this tree.

fin
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
tekewin



Joined: 11 Apr 2013
Posts: 673
Add Comment
Show Comments




Location: Aliso Viejo

PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 6:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Really nice shots and awesome rocks!  You should look into Coffman's Crag, about a half mile below the station on the Skyline trail. I've never heard of anyone climbing it, but someone probably has. Many great bouldering spots within a mile of the station just off the Round Valley trail.
_________________
http://ironhiker.blogspot.com/
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
rck



Joined: 06 Jan 2014
Posts: 47
Add Comment
Show Comments





PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like you had fun exploring the area. Just took a climbing class and it will be a while until I try something like that, maybe. Thanks for the pics and post!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
outwhere



Joined: 25 Jan 2009
Posts: 323
Add Comment
Show Comments





PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Niceness as usual, Taco!

A weird question...the road in the center of the picture - if anyone can confirm, is that Highway 62 that takes you from the 10 up into Yucca Valley ?

Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
neverwashasbeen



Joined: 27 Sep 2014
Posts: 2
Add Comment
Show Comments





PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Taco,

Most of the climbs in your pictures were done decades ago. Pm me for details. Outwhere, that is indeed Hwy 62. Taco, yes, that is Coffman's, it was climbed at least as early as the opening of the tram, if not sooner. A ribbon was strung from the rock to one of the tram cars for a ribbon cutting ceremony. RMRU climbed the crag in order to put up the ribbon.
_________________
Users are not allowed signatures when they first join
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
James



Joined: 04 Feb 2010
Posts: 79
Add Comment
Show Comments





PostPosted: Mon Sep 29, 2014 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool pics, cool rocks, cool cracks.  Good times!
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
outwhere



Joined: 25 Jan 2009
Posts: 323
Add Comment
Show Comments





PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2014 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for confirming that Neverwas!  A buddy of mine has some connections to that particular stretch of highway, so when anything related to it comes up, I forward it to him.

Taco, your TR, and camera, provided an angle of the road we've never seen before... isn't it weird to find out when you're taking a photo, ya never know what it might mean to someone else...  Idea
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    EisPiraten.com Forum Index -> Other Ranges -> California All times are GMT - 7 Hours
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group

"Their only motive was a great ideal; this was what linked together mountaineers so widely dissimilar in background and so diverse in character."
Maurice Herzog, Annapurna